Jordan

Friday is the day of rest. Most shops, government buildings/services and banks are closed (NB: Jewish people do not work on Saturdays and Christians are free on Sundays). On Fridays you will see many families will go to the countryside to have a picnic or visit some of the places of interest.
Jordanian national holidays include:
- 15 January: Tree Day
- 30 January: King Abdullah’s Birthday
- 22 March: Arabian League Day
- 1 May: Labour Day
- 25 May: Independence Day
- 10 June: Anniversary of the Arabian Revolution
- 14 November: (the late) King Hussein’s Birthday

Islamic holidays: Because the Islamic calendar is based on the position of the moon, the festivals fall on different Gregorian dates every year. The festival of sacrifice is on the 16h of November in 2010. Ramadan can cause problems for tourists as many restaurants are closed, and eating, drinking and smoking in public are not appreciated. People will accommodate and cook for tourists in this period, however. In 2010, Ramadan begins on the 11th of August until the 9th of September. Eid al-Fitr, the breakfast feast that follows Ramadan, begins on the 10th of September. Ramadan begins as soon as the full moon is spotted. As a result of this, it can sometimes begin a day earlier than stated here, and the official beginning of Ramadan has been known to vary from place to place.

The cultural differences between Europe and Jordan are so big that you could write a book about them. The following hints will help you avoid the biggest misunderstandings.

Hospitality: This is a cornerstone of Arabic life. It is normal for Jordanian families (especially the Bedouin) to welcome foreigners into their houses. This tradition was born out of the hardship of desert life; scarce food, water and shelter mean that most desert travellers would not survive the ordeal. Wherever you are in Syria or Jordan, you will be invited many times to local’s houses for a cup of tea or to eat.

Haggling: Haggling is the normal way to buy things at the souq (market) or in souvenir shops. The souqs in Jordan, particularly in Amman, are ideal places to buy nice items, such as cloths, shawls, jewellery, woodwork, rugs, traditional clothing and herbs. If you get in a taxi, which does not have a meter or has one that does not work, agree a price with the driver before you travel.

Gestures: Jordanians use many gestures during their conversations, which in many cases differ strongly from ours. Examples of this are that people say ‘no’ by raising their eyebrows and tilting their head back slightly, sometimes accompanied by a ‘tsk-tsk’ sound. You can say a polite ‘no, thank you’ by placing your right hand on your heart. If you do not want any more tea or coffee, lay your hand over your cup and say ‘shukran’ (thank you). Bedouin folk rotate their cup a couple of times to indicate the same thing. If somebody does not understand something, he will shake his head (like our ‘no’). Men who ask for directions should not be surprised if he is grabbed by the arm, as he will then be led to his destination in this manner. It is normal for men to walk hand in hand with each other here, although think twice if you are female and a local man wishes to walk with you in such a way! Here, the left hand is used to clean one’s backside after visiting the toilet, and is seen as unclean for this reason. Therefore, if you wish to gesture or touch something, use your right hand.

Art
Visual art in the Arabic world usually refers to architecture, mainly due to the fact that Islam forbids depiction of living creatures. Spectacular monuments and excavations are common in Jordan. The ruins of the city of Petra in Jordan are an absolute highlight, dating back to the time of the Nabataeans.

Public baths
A visit to a Hammam (public bath) is a special experience. In Jordan, visiting a public bath is a normal part of everyday custom. The baths have fixed opening hours, and there are separate times and rooms for women to visit. You must undress a couple of hours before going in. The Arabs take their bathing customs from the Romans. In the hammam there are warm baths, hot baths and saunas. There are no cold baths. You scoop up a ladleful of water out of one of the buckets and pour it over your body. Massages cost extra, but are extremely thorough. Afterwards you can relax and enjoy a cup of tea in the relaxation room. Men must make sure they keep their bottom halves clothed, although women are less prudish amongst themselves. Towels are handed out in the baths.

In general
Always remember that you are a guest in a country where other conventions prevail. They are not behaving strangely, you are!

Drinking water: You cannot drink the tap water. Buy bottles of purified drinking water, which is safe to drink everywhere. Do verify that the bottles have their original caps. Coke on the rocks is taboo too, because the ice cubes are made from tap water. You should also brush your teeth with bottled water.

Meals: Arabian cuisine is not well known outside the region and there are large regional variations; in Tunisia or Egypt traditional foods are different to Syria or Jordan. Jordanian and Syrian dishes are often influenced by other Mediterranean countries and other traditional Arabian dishes. It is advisable to begin slowly in order to allow your taste buds to acclimatise, however tasty the food may be. In principle, everything is worth a try, but avoid kiosks or souq stalls that appear to use less than fresh produce. This is particularly useful advice during the summer months. Meats on a spit can also be included here. Meals that have spent time in warmed containers can also breed bacteria. Watch out for raw vegetables, mayonnaise and ice cream. In Syria, it is best to avoid milk and cream, although yoghurt is safe. In Jordan, milk is pasteurised. Recommended local dishes include shawarma (kebab meat made from marinated lamb), kibbih (deep-fried meatballs with added flour and onion, falafel (deep-fried balls made from chick-pea paste, served in bread), hummus (chick-pea paste mixed with sesame paste, garlic and lemon), ful (brown beans, garlic and lemon, combined with lots of oil), kebabs (grilled mincemeat), shish kebabs (lamb from a spit, grilled over charcoal), laban (yoghurt), or khobz (flat, round bread served with most meals, and often used as a ‘spoon’). Mensaf is a typical Bedouin dish, consisting of lamb, rice and pine seeds. As mentioned earlier, Islam forbids eating pork, and you will not find it on any menu. Do not request it in a restaurant, as you will deeply offend the staff by doing so. If you do not wish to eat meat, there is a range of vegetable dishes, the most notable of which being karnabit maqli (roast cauliflower with sesame sauce), badhinjan mahshi (stuffed aubergine in tomato sauce), and mnazalet banadora (stuffed tomatoes). Desserts here are very sweet, and mostly consist of puff-pastry with nuts, soaked in honey.

Alcohol: Despite Islam’s prohibition of alcohol, it is widely available (except during Ramadan) and is widely consumed. Wines produced in the region are not favoured by experts. Beer is brewed in Syria, and it is certainly not outclassed by western beer. Western beers are brewed in Jordan and much imported beer is also sold here. Arabians also drink arak, before, during and after meals. Arak is distilled from aniseed, resembles ouzo and is identical to Turkish raki. It is often diluted with water. You can find fresh fruit juice made from fruits such as banana, orange, lemon etc. Make sure to check that they are not diluted with water, unless you prefer watery fruit juice! Soft drinks are also widely available.

Tea and coffee: Black hot sweet tea is the national drink of Jordan. This “shai” is served in small glasses all over the country. If you do not want sugar, simply say: “B'dun shakar.” Coffee is also popular here, especially Turkish coffee. It is boiled with sugar and served in a kind of doll’s coffee set. You should let the deposit settle before taking a sip. You could also take Arab coffee. It is boiled several times, which makes it highly concentrated. The cardamom, which is added lavishly, lends the coffee a special and tasty flavour. When you visit people at home you will usually be served this Arab coffee, even when you have asked for tea. To be polite, drink at least three cups. Then you can put your hand over your cup to indicate you have had enough. Then you may get the tea you asked for.

Restaurants: You can find Arab cuisine in its simple form in small eating places and in its exotic, luxurious form in the more expensive restaurants. Eating out is cheaper than in Western Europe, with the exception of the luxurious hotels. International cuisine can be found in all the larger hotels. Hamburger and pizza restaurants are scarce, except in Amman.

Jordan has a surface area of 35,500 square miles, slightly larger than Ireland. Its coastline along the Gulf of Aqaba is just 29 km long. 5.5 million people live in the kingdom, of which 2.5 million live in the capital city of Amman. The east of the country is practically empty, as is also the case in Syria. Jordan and Syria together border Turkey, Iraq, Saudi Arabia, Israel and Lebanon.

The terrain in these countries features intense desert and mountainous landscapes. In the extensive desert plains in the east, you can find picturesque oases, although these become much scarcer the further east you travel.

In spring, the rainy areas in northern Jordan are covered with flowers such as blue lupines, red hibiscuses, pink cuckoo flowers and purple sea holly to name but a few. Cyclamens begin to grow in December. The black iris is the national flower of Jordan, and is easiest to find around Madaba. Oleander bushes grow in abundance in the dried-up river beds. The wildlife is limited, although some wildlife still lives around the oases in the east, such as gazelles, oryxes and the desert fox. You will certainly meet the dromedary (one-humped camel). Jordan is home to several places with National Park status, such as the Shauma Reserve near Azraq. Under the water deserves a special mention, with the variety of tropical fish and coral near the Jordanian port city of Aqaba. Here you can snorkel, dive, or hire a glass-bottomed boat. Hundreds of different types of coral offer sanctuary to around 1,000 different species of fish. Alongside magnificent butterfly fish, parrot fish, clown fish, balloon fish and lion fish, you’ll also get close up to starfish, sea-horses and sea anemones.

In Jordan, 95% of the population is Arab. More than half are refugees from Palestine, who fled to Jordan during the wars between 1948 and 1967. They received (as in any Arab nation) automatic citizenship and the majority of them are well integrated into Jordanian culture. In general, the Palestinians are well educated and occupy high positions in the government, in business and in the scientific community. After the Gulf War, the population of Jordan was boosted by another 400,000 as people fled from Kuwait and other Gulf states.
The Bedouin in Jordan number several hundred thousand, although few of them still pursue fully nomadic lifestyles. However, some do maintain their traditional way of life. They camp for several months when they find a suitable place to graze their herds of sheep, goats and dromedaries. When food for the animals threatens to run out, they hit the road again. You can see their black goat-fur tents in the east and the south of Jordan, sometimes alone, sometimes in groups of three or four. Such tents are usually divided into separate living areas for men and women. The compartment for the men doubles as common space, and this is where any guests are received. The family’s possessions and provisions are stored in the females’ compartment, where entry to outsiders is forbidden. The women do the household chores, fetch water, bake bread and make clothes. The men provide food and take care of security. Children are usually sent out to tend to the cattle. Many Bedouin still wear traditional clothing, and the men carry daggers. Many of the women have facial tattoos. The dromedaries, long time companions and friends to the Bedouin, are generally being replaced these days by Land Rovers and pick-up trucks. The Bedouin are renowned for being extremely hospitable, and these days many Bedouin put down permanent roots somewhere. This has been encouraged by the Jordanian government since the 1950s through the building of settlements with stone houses, schools and health centres for the Bedouin to move into. Jordanians are well educated; 97% of children attend primary school and there are nine state universities.

Jordan’s state religion is Islam, although people are free to practise whatever religion they choose, just as in Syria. Over 90% of the Muslims are Sunnis and 3% Shiites. A small Christian minority lives in Jordan.

The word ‘Islam’ means ‘submission to God’. The core belief is the one indivisible god Allah, and Mohammed is his prophet. Allah revealed his word to Mohammed in the 7th century via the angel Gabriel. The revelations were written down to form the Muslim holy book, the Koran. For centuries the sharia, the holy Islamic laws based on the Koran, dictated justice and education in Islamic countries. There are five sacred duties which all Muslims must fulfil, the so-called five pillars of Islam. These are:
- Shahada: The declaration of the religion’s core principle; ‘There is no god other than Allah and Mohammed is his prophet’.
- Salat: Prayer, which every Muslim must say five times a day in the direction of Mecca. Face, hands and feet must be washed before prayer. The prayers and movements are specifically fixed, and prayer in a mosque is compulsory for men on Friday afternoon. People are called to prayer from towers everyday, and these towers are everywhere in the landscape.
- Zakat: The giving of alms to the poor. These days, this is not done as commonly as in earlier times.
- Sawm: Fasting throughout the month of Ramadan. People are not permitted to eat, drink, smoke or have sex from sunrise to sunset.
- Hijrah: Pilgrimage from Mecca to Medina. Every Muslim must do this once in their lives, as long as finances and health allow it.
The consumption of pork or alcohol is not permitted by Islam. The religion also has a tendency to separate the sexes. In some restaurants it seems as if only men are allowed to dine, but if you ask the proprietor then he will take you to the ‘family room’, where women are also allowed.

Climate: In general, the winter months (November-March) are cold and wet and the summer (April-November) is hot and dry. However, there are, as mentioned, varying climates. The temperature in Amman is around 10 degrees in January, rising to around 30 degrees in July. In Aqaba, January averages 15 degrees, running up to around 35 in July.

Best time to travel: Our spring (April-June) is the best time to visit. Temperatures are mild and the rain has usually stopped. Furthermore, the flowers are all in bloom and the springs are full of water. September until November (autumn) is also a good time to visit. During our winter months it can be cold and rainy, especially in the mountainous regions, where it also sometimes snows. However, this period tends to usher in very pleasant weather in Aqaba and around the Dead Sea. If you go during the summer (June until August), be sure you have headscarves, caps, sunglasses and a plentiful supply of water. You can expect extreme heat in this period.

Take it easy on your first day in Jordan. Take the time to recover from the flight and get used to the different climate, culture and country. Let it slowly work its magic on you. The more you relax the more pleasure you will get out of Jordan.

A visa is required for an European passport holder to travel to Jordan. Shoestring does not provide this service. Please contact the Jordan embassy in your home country.

Jordan uses 220 volt, 50 hertz alternating current, assuming a power cut is not occurring. For this reason, many Jordanians have backup generators at home. At the souq, you will neither hear nor see the transfer to the backup generators. The current can fluctuate in certain areas, which can be damaging to electrical equipment. Plug sockets are not uniform, although adapters can be bought in electrical stores or borrowed in some hotels. A good torch can certainly come in handy, especially for when you are out walking at night, as street lighting can fail and leave you literally in the dark. Water supplies can also be subject to breakdown, and many buildings have a water reservoir on the roof to counteract this.

The following health information is a general text that applies to all our Middle Eastern holidays (Egypt, Morocco, Turkey, Syria, Jordan). Travellers to the Middle East who pay some attention to hygiene and skincare usually don’t run into health problems, apart from some harmless intestinal complaints.

Food and drink: Tap water is unfit for human consumption; you should drink mineral water instead. In small eating-places it is better not to eat fruit or salads that have been skinned beforehand. In the cities, preferably take your meals in busy restaurants. Do not eat ice cream, except in expensive restaurants. Do wash your hands thoroughly before eating, even if you are only taking a snack.

Sunshine and heat: Sunburn is a frequent cause for health problems. The sun is fierce. Particularly from May to September, temperatures can rise to over 40 degrees Celsius. Sunburn and sun/heat strokes are easier caught than you may think. You should therefore avoid the sun during the hottest hours of the day, always wear a hat and good sunglasses when you are walking, and use a good suntan lotion when sunbathing. The latter can best be brought along from home, where the choice of product is much larger and prices are lower. At high temperatures the body’s need for water increases very rapidly, as does its need for salt. Make sure you drink enough when the heat is extreme and you will simply have to take it very easy during the hottest hours of the day.

Prickly heat: Prickly heat is an inflammation of the pores caused by excessive perspiration. It is common and innocent, but very annoying. The skin grows red and irritated in places. Places where skin touches skin, such as armpits and thighs, are particularly susceptible. The symptoms will decrease when you take a cold shower – without using soap – a few times a day and dry yourself off well. Talcum powder on the affected spots may also help. When it is hot and damp, do not sleep under a sheet but wear a cotton T-shirt. When it troubles you very much, the best thing to do is take an air-conditioned room for a couple of nights.

Diarrhoea: Next to sunburn, the most common health problem is diarrhoea. Travellers are often hit by it after they have been on holiday for only a few days. In most cases it is an utterly innocuous phenomenon caused by the change of diet, the heat or harmless bacteria, against which the body will soon develop its defences. The main risk is dehydration, especially in children. It occurs when the body loses more fluid, salt and sugars than it receives. The result is a feeling of listlessness and weakness. It can be prevented by drinking a solution of water and ORS. It is sold in bags at the pharmacies and contains all the minerals and sugars which are evacuated with diarrhoea. Instead of this solution you can also take noncarbonated soft drinks or heavily salted broth. For many people, cola has a constipating effect in the first stages of diarrhoea. When the diarrhoea is accompanied by high fever, bloody defecation or strong qualms, it is sensible to consult a physician. When the diarrhoea lasts for more than a few days without the above-mentioned symptoms or when you have to travel, you may take Imodium or Diacure a couple of times. It is an opium-like preparation that stops the bowels completely for a number of hours.

Doctors, pharmacies and drugs: Doctors and pharmacists are generally well-trained and trustworthy. When it comes to dispensing drugs, however, they tend to aim a canon at a mosquito. Always ask explicitly whether the medicines you are getting are really necessary. Almost all medicines are available without a prescription. When buying medicine be sure to check the best-before date. A small basic medical kit might include the following items: plasters, bandages, cotton wool, scissors, a thermometer, iodine, painkillers, malaria tablets, ORS bags, Imodium or Diacure, an insect repellent like DEET and an anti-itch relief stick or cream. Don’t forget to include earplugs against the unbelievable sound levels sometimes produced in the cities until well into the night.

Medical passport: If you are on prescription medicine, bring an extra supply and keep it separated. This way you’ll always have a spare stock. Ask your pharmacy to draw up a medical passport for you. This includes names of the substances and the exact composition of the medication that you use. Keep this document and your medication in your hand luggage. If you have a chronic illness, ask your GP for a written explanation of your disease and its treatment (in English).

Vaccinations: The information below was given by the healthcare authorities at the time of writing. This information may change. Moreover, your needs depend on whether you have had previous vaccinations, whether you are allergic to certain medicine, if you are pregnant, your age, and so on. ALWAYS contact your GP or some other healthcare authority for advice. The complete vaccination package includes DTP, hepatitis A, and – optionally – abdominal typhoid. There are no compulsory vaccinations, except for those who have been to regions with yellow fever or cholera within two weeks before arrival in the Middle East. Ask your medical insurance company if the cost of vaccinations is covered. Malaria: In Jordan, Morocco, Turkey and Egypt you do not have to take malaria tablets. The only place in Egypt where malaria occurs is the al-Faiyum oasis, which you are not visiting. During the months of May through October malaria does occur in Syria. Here, it is recommended to protect yourself with anti-malaria drugs. For more information, consult your GP or some other healthcare authority.

Some additional recommendations for an enjoyable stay
Allow your body and mind some time to adapt to the new time zone and location. Avoid stress, do not plan to do too much at once. At least take it easy on the first day. It is a good habit to get up early; in hot climates the morning temperature is often the most agreeable. The people in the countries you visit are also used to rising early. When you adapt to their rhythm you will make the most of your trip. When you are well-rested you are best able to deal with all the new impressions and you’ll have the energy to undertake more activities.

Make sure that those at home know which country you are in and how long you are planning to stay away. You may fix a date when you will contact them again. Provide those picking you up from the airport with your flight times and numbers. Shoestring will not provide flight and/or travel information, accommodation names and telephone numbers to third parties. Any information on delays can be retrieved via the information number at the airport or Teletext, not via Shoestring.

Contact person
In case of an emergency, it is important for us to have details of someone we can reach as a contact person back home on your behalf. You will have entered a name on the booking form. It is possible that this person is unavailable or on holiday during your trip. If so, enter a second person so that we are sure to be able to get in touch with somebody.

Women are better off wearing dresses or trousers which cover the knee at least. Also make sure that your shoulders are covered; spaghetti band tops are not appreciated here! On Aqaba beach, one-piece swimsuits are better than bikinis. Especially on the public beaches, locals are not used to the ‘naked’ tourists.
The local female population walks round in a combination of western and eastern clothing. Women wearing a skirt or a pair of jeans are commonplace. There are also women who wear black robes from head to foot, sometimes with their faces completely veiled. Bedouin women usually wear colourful dresses and headscarves.
Men will usually encounter no problems if they wear shorts, although this can be viewed as eccentric. Long trousers are appreciated more by the locals. Many local men wear a jalabiyyeh (a long, eastern ‘dress’), on top of which they nearly always wear a western style jacket. Others are dressed fully in western style clothes. Many men also wear a red or black headscarf called a keffiyeh.

You must be barefoot to enter a mosque. If you wish to visit one, dress conservatively. Some of them, such as the Umayyad Mosque in Damascus, will give you a coat to wear over your clothes if they deem your dress sense unsuitable for the mosque. Men wearing shorts may be refused entry, with or without wrap-around overgarments. Women must also have their heads covered. During the summer months, a good travel wardrobe would contain light comfortable cotton clothes (better not shorts, miniskirts or vests), good, closed shoes, maybe even sandals, sunglasses, sunhat or headscarf, swimwear and a jumper or thin coat for the evenings. During the winter, a raincoat can come in handy, as well as a couple of thick jumpers, a warm coat, sturdy walking shoes/hiking boots and something thin and light for the daytime.

The amount of spending money suggested is the minimum required to pay for your meals, drinks, optional excursions, entrance fees, airport taxes and tips. The amount you actually need is of course dependent on your own spending pattern; that is why souvenirs are not included.We recommend an amount of € 175-225 per week.

You can photograph/film everything in both countries, with the exception of military sites (bridges, airports or government buildings) or the police. People generally enjoy being photographed. However, if there is any doubt, it is best to ask first before snapping. Respect any objections that people may have. Be careful when photographing women, people praying, and sites that Jordanians feel may not give a positive impression of their country. Photographical equipment and accessories are available everywhere in Jordan, although make sure you check any use by dates before purchase and that the items have not been stored in conditions which may damage them. Film for slides is difficult to come by.

In general, Jordan is safe for tourists. Most of the locals are hospitable and friendly. Although theft is not a big problem, it is always sensible to take precautions. Do not show wads of money on the streets. It is useful to have two money belts, one containing money necessary for that particular day, and the other with the rest of your money, to wear under your clothes. However, you will not feel that you must watch your valuables like a hawk. Begging is not commonplace, although sometimes children may ask for sweets or small items like biros.

Women: Travelling through Jordan will pose no cultural problems for women. However, it is advisable to wear ‘discreet’ clothing. In villages, it is not appropriate to go unaccompanied (by a man) to places such as tea houses or other areas where there are only men. Direct eye contact is often seen as an ‘invitation’. In general, the more self confidence you radiate, the less trouble you will have.

Jordanian time is two hours later than Greenwich Mean Time. This remains the case in summer, as Jordan also have daylight saving time.

At the more expensive restaurants, the service charge is included in the bill. If this is not the case, then a tip of around 10% is customary. This also applies to taxis, on top of the meter price. Tips keep affairs in the Middle East running smoothly. People who offer services to you directly (porters, door-openers and room service/cleaners) will all expect a tip. Your bus driver(s) will expect a tip relative to the time that (t)he(y) has(/have) driven for you, assuming they have performed their duties satisfactorily. A good guideline is around the equivalent of 50-70 cents per day (per tourist). The English-speaking local tour guide will also expect a tip, again assuming satisfactory service, and we suggest around the equivalent of € 1 per day.