China 'on a Shoestring'

Festivals and celebrations
China has 9 national holidays: January 1st (New Year), Chinese New Year in (this date varies each year and depends on the Chinese lunar calendar, in 2008 it is on February 7th); March 8th (International Women’s Day); May 1st (Labour Day); May 4th (Youth Day); June 1st (Children’s Day); July 1st (the CCP’s Birthday - founding of the Chinese Communist Party in 1921 in Shanghai); August 1st (anniversary of the founding of the People’s Liberation Army); October 1st (National Day - founding of the People's Republic of China in 1949).
Special ceremonies are held in Taoist and Buddhist temples on full moon and new moon days. It is fun to get an inside view on such days. The Lantern Festival is especially colourful (Yuàxi-o Jié). It marks the end of the Chinese New Year season; the people make paper lanterns and walk through the streets with them in the evening. There is also the Moon Festival on September 14th in 2008.

Cultural differences between the Chinese and Europeans are so enormous that you could write a complete book about them. Underneath we have picked a few which might be of daily interest when associating with the local people.

‘We don’t have’: ‘Meiyou' was the first Chinese that foreigners learnt in China during the first years after the country opened its borders for individual travellers at the beginning of the eighties. It means, “We don’t have”. You would often hear it, whatever you asked for: railway tickets, bus tickets, hotel beds and what not. Often these things were not unobtainable or sold out. We can, however, account for this puzzling and uncooperative behaviour. In the communist economy, the Chinese had no personal financial interest in accommodating their customers. Why make an effort? Within Chinese society there were all kinds of shortages, which could only be obtained through the use of connections. The Chinese themselves call this ‘guanxi’, ‘using the back door’. Services and commodities are often delivered by unofficial means. You then have the right to a service in return. ‘Meiyou’ always stayed ‘meiyou’. Chinese will not be the first to own up to being mistaken. This is seen as a loss of face, one of the worst things that can happen to you in social situations.

Haggling: Gradually 'meiyou' made its way out. Greed for money took its place. Nowadays, Chinese people want to supply you with everything and overcharge you for it. They have no qualms about heavily overcharging at all. We consider this to be cheating. They probably consider this to be quite normal and would like to get their share of our wealth. You have to keep up your guard where there are no fixed prices. You have to haggle at souvenir shops in China, Tibet as well as Nepal. If you eat at the street stalls, you always should agree the price up front.

Etiquette: Be aware of the deeply rooted Chinese idea that China and the Chinese are the standard and the rest of the world is deviant. Most Chinese are kind and curious with regard to foreigners. But at very best they consider us to be ‘different’, though usually ‘barbarians’. Neighbouring people learned from the Chinese, not the other way round. In the modern world, this mentality may not be very appropriate anymore, though is still largely present. According to western etiquette, a few local habits are downright distasteful. Chinese eating habits include loud slurping and belching. After a meal, the table and surrounding area is left in a chaotic and messy state with leftovers, chicken bones, fish bones and so on, everywhere. We also can’t bear the rattling and spitting that the Chinese dedicate themselves to so completely. There is loud honking, snorting and spewing. The best thing is just to be cheerful about it all.

Clothing: In China there are no strict clothing rules and it is possible to show up in shorts and tops. It is amusing to see how Chinese men walk around in a vest and rolled up trouser legs (till above the knee) when it’s warm. As a rule, people are somewhat more covered up than we are used to. It is respectful to adapt oneself to this, although the Chinese might not expect this from us ‘deviant’ westerners.

Amusement: The Chinese, who work six days per week, have little spare time in comparison to westerners. In the country people meet to talk to each other and watch television together in their spare time. In the cities, people watch television or take a walk in the streets or parks. You can do this as well, following Chinese custom. You could also visit the cinema. China has over 140,000 cinemas. Usually it is quite noisy there; people sympathize out loud and give a running commentary on the films, which are mostly in Chinese. Most films finish at 9 pm. In larger cities it is possible to visit a café, pub or discotheque. In Xi’an there are all kinds of little market stalls along the road until late at night. In Beijing you could visit a performance of the famous Peking Opera. In these operas singing, dancing, acrobatics and spoken texts are combined. The traditional subjects of the Peking Opera are derived from history and mythology. The central theme is usually the struggle between right and wrong. During the Cultural Revolution the Peking Opera was forbidden and after this the Opera has gone through various changes. The subjects are now either new or traditional. Acrobatics has been the most beloved form of amusement in China for over 22 centuries.

In general
Be continuously aware that you are staying as a guest in a country where people have different manners. They are not different, you are.

Chinese basically eat everything alive. This is the result of centuries of famine and deprivation. Not only are all animals looked upon as a possible meal, every scrap is eaten, including snout, brains and intestines. A visit to a local market offers a view of Chinese cuisine. You could make a game out of guessing what you see: anteaters, scorpions, snake, dog. Every non-vegetarian should have no difficulty with dishes prepared from these ingredients. Westerners usually find the cruel treatment of the animals repugnant. Frogs and snakes are skinned alive. All animals are locked up in oppressive and suffocating small cages. The Chinese do not humanise animals in any way. It is food and that is all there is to it. However, normal everyday dinners are less exciting, for the Chinese as well as the visitors, than this market would suggest.
The only really exotic meals you might consume will consist of snake or grasshopper.
As you might expect in a country with such enormous dimensions, there are regional differences. The most outstanding distinction concerns basic food: in the south people eat more rice; in the north there’s more produce made of dough, such as noodles. In the north they also make bread from the grain, often taking the shape of steamed rolls, with or without vegetables or meat inside. The dichotomy does not fully apply.
The Szechuan cuisine is known for its highly seasoned dishes. One of the specialities is ‘hotpot’ (fondue) which can be especially spicy. You choose the ingredients yourself. In Lijiang you can order Naxi buffets, with all kinds of baked cheese. In Xi’an you’ll sense the Muslim influence and you can order delicious kebabs: small skewers with beef or mutton that are barbecued on the spot. Beijing of course has Peking Duck on the menu, in countless varieties.

In the larger cities there is usually the opportunity to eat out on the streets. Since the start of the economic reforms, the Chinese are once again allowed to have their own small businesses, and you will see streets and small squares where they put up their little eating stalls in the evenings. You order by simply pointing out what you want. In this manner, eating is tasty, cheap and fun because you are surrounded by Chinese people. In the smaller tourist towns such as Yangshuo, Lijiang and Dali you will find small eating-places oriented towards westerners. Yoghurt, muesli, pizza and pancakes are very popular here among foreigners. During travelling days on the bus or train you will eat what’s going. The meals will be simple but nourishing. On the train they will be made up of a bowl of rice with mixed vegetables and some meat or fish. During bus rides we will stop at the Chinese equivalent of wayside restaurants, where you will be able to choose, besides rice, from about four ready-made dishes.
For that matter, if the Chinese go out to dinner with a group of people, it is not customary for everyone to order only for themselves.
Several dishes are placed on the table and everybody takes from everything. In restaurants there is a kind of turntable in the middle of the table and all the dishes on it can be turned towards you at your convenience. It is fun to get used to eating in this way when going out to dinner with a group of people. And sure enough, you will eat with chopsticks.
China’s national drink is tea, more specifically: green tea (which is actually not green but light brown). You will have to get used to the taste and you drink it unsweetened.
You will notice that Chinese take glass pots with a lid to work or when travelling. They will cover the bottom of the pot with tealeaves and pour boiled water over it all day long. Boiled water is always available on trains, boats and hotels free of charge. You can make use of it yourself. Coffee is not popular with the Chinese, though nowadays you can obtain instant coffee nearly everywhere. Coca Cola and other soft drinks are available everywhere, as well as alcoholic beverages. Maotai for instance can be compared to gin, though it smells of cheese. Chinese wine is different from European wine. The beer tastes good and is sold in large bottles of more than 0.6 litres. They contain only 2-3 percent alcohol, so you can keep on drinking if you like.

The total surface area of China is 9,580,000 sq.km which makes it the second largest country in the world. China is roughly 300 times larger than the Netherlands and can best be compared - regarding surface area – to Western Europe.
China’s landscape is immeasurably diverse: the vast lowland plains of the north easterly part; the hilly and watery south eastern part; the loess plateau of Central China; the highlands of Tibet and Qinghai; the desert and steppe areas of Xinjiang and Inner Mongolia and finally the rugged karst landscape of the south with its classical views.
Topographically China is trapped between Russia, Kazakhstan, Kirghizistan, Tadzhikistan, Mongolia and Korea in the north, and Pakistan, India, Nepal, Myanmar, Laos and Vietnam in the south. The total length of the border is over 20,000 kilometres.
 

China has over a billion inhabitants. About 20% live in the towns, the rest of them live in the country. In order to put a stop to enormous increases in population, the Chinese government introduced the one-child policy. People living in towns are forced to have just one child. If they have more children, they are forced to make sacrifices in other areas. For instance they will have to live in a small house and education is no longer free of charge. With twins though this rule does not apply.
The Han Chinese make up about 93% of the population. Furthermore, there are about 55 other minorities, mainly living in the border regions.
 

The three greatest religions in China are Buddhism, Confucianism and Taoism. Although the history of the three religions is completely different, there are a good many similarities: the founders are not gods, but people of flesh and blood. They are more of a way of life or a philosophy than a religion.

Buddhism: Buddha was born in Lumbini, in the Terai region of Nepal, in the 6th Century BC. During his luxury life as a prince he was confronted with the suffering of the people around him. After a long period of meditation he achieved Enlightenment and started to proclaim a new way of life. Buddhism is actually a reformatory movement of Hinduism and many elements of the two religions correspond. However, a few important aspects of the prevailing doctrine were rejected by Buddha. Two important matters that he found reprehensible were the Brahman ritual of idolising the gods and the caste system.

Hinduism: The Buddha claimed that everything that exists is in a perpetual sequence of creation and decay. In principle, nothing can escape this fate: not the gods, not the universe, not the people. However, Buddha himself did succeed in being released from the eternal wheel of reincarnation. His teachings show the way to rise up from daily affliction and go to nirvana: a condition of timeless rest and unity with everything. Of significance are the four noble truths: 1. All life means suffering. 2. This suffering is a consequence of our desires. 3. By removing the desires man can end the suffering. 4. The removal of the desires is obtained by following ‘the right course’. The right course exists of the eightfold path, a system of thought and action that sees to it that the karma of the one who treads the path improves. As the karma improves by following the right path, you reincarnate into a more pure form. At last you reach Bodhisattva, a state in which you long for nothing else but the fortune of all others. Subsequently you dissolve into nirvana, the state of enlightenment where you realize that everything that exists is an illusion, a mere mirage of an indivisible unity that rests within itself.
The most important form in present-day China is Mahayana Buddhism. For example, the great vehicle that promises redemption to all beings by means of bodhisattvas. Bodhisattvas are those who have reached a state of enlightenment, but renounce this and postpone their own transition to nirvana in order to devote themselves to the redemption of the whole of mankind. They try to pass on good karma and thus lead mankind to enlightenment.
Buddhism developed between the third and sixth century AD and was presumably introduced by Indian tradesmen who took Buddhist priests along on their travels. Shortly afterwards monasteries rose throughout China. These monasteries fulfilled the same role as the churches in Europe during the Middle Ages and acted as inns, hospitals and orphanages as well as places of worship. Travellers and refugees could always find shelter there.

Confucianism: the ideas of Confucius (5th century BC) have been of influence on Chinese culture for 2000 years. Because of this, his philosophies will be described here only briefly. Confucianism is not a religion; rather, it’s a practical, ethical system; a system of law and order. The philosopher was worshipped like a god, however, and innumerable offerings were made to him. The universe is determined by the order and rhythm in the world: the sun, the moon and the stars move according to the laws of nature. In the same way, man has to live within the scope of the order of the world. This idea is based on the idea that people have the capacity to learn.
Confucius assumed that there was a strict hierarchy and he defined this very clearly and precisely. Only if each separate individual in society takes complete responsibility for his or her position, can society function well as a whole. Family ties and social duties are of the utmost importance. Between father and son (the son is to obey the father unconditionally), between husband and wife (women hardly have any individual rights), between the older and younger brother, between mutual friends and between the master and his subject.

Taoism: Taoism is the only religion that originated in China. Buddhism came from India and Confucianism is essentially a way of life. The founder of Taoism was Lao Tse, meaning ‘grand old master’, and it is commonly held that he was born in the year 604 AD. Yet there are doubts as to whether the man lived at all. Nothing is known about him, not even his name. Myth tells us that Lao Tse was born as an old man with white hair and a long beard, after having spent 82 years in his mother’s womb.
The concept of Taoism is ‘dao’. Though it is impossible to give an exact translation it means something like ‘the path’, ‘the road’, but also ‘the method’ or ‘the principle’. Even the Chinese find it hard to translate the concept. Another tenet is ‘wu wei’, meaning “without action” or “swim with the tide”. It is best described as being attuned to the deepest flow of life itself. Two opposite poles determine the course of events in the universe: yin and yang. Yang is the masculine, the clear and high heavens. Yin is considered to be feminine, obscure, passive and unfathomably deep. Without yin there is no yang and without yang no yin.

Climate: China is an immense country with various climatic zones. In the north there is a continental climate, with temperatures of - 20° centigrade in winter up to 30° centigrade in the summer. Travelling south we reach more moderate zones, finally converting to a subtropical and then genuinely tropical climate in Hong Kong. These vast areas are frequently flooded, but the chance of this affecting our journey is minimal.

The best time to travel: The best time to travel to China.is between April to October. In the spring the fruit trees and meadows are in bloom, later in the year the paddy fields are a deep green and in the autumn, when the nights get colder once more, it is harvest time and the rural areas are full of commotion. During all journeys you will experience sunshine, rain and cloudiness. In the winter months it can be considerably cold.

The journey begins in the Chinese capital Beijing where you will be immersed immediately in a totally different culture: The classical architecture of the Imperial Forbidden City, a Peking opera performance, the commotion and swarming in the streets, eating with chopsticks. Take it easy for the first couple of days, recover from the flight and let your system slowly get used to this overwhelming country.

If you have not reserved the arrival transfer with us, please take a moment to read the following information regarding taxis at Beijing airport. Once you have arrived at the airport, go to the official taxi point. The queue may be long, but this is a safer way to travel to your hotel. Please don't follow anyone who offers to take you somewhere else to get a taxi. These cars are usually operating illegally.

The taxi from the airport to your hotel in Beijing normally costs around 150 to 200 CNY depending on traffic and the type of vehicle. Please ask the driver for a receipt (which must be printed out from the meter on the spot) so that you can find him/her later if you have left any belongings in the car or have any complaints about him/her. If the driver refuses to give you a printed receipt, please make a note of the number plate for future reference.

Sockets supply 220 volt, 50-hertz alternating current. You will need an adapter if you want to use British electrical appliances in China. Power failures do not occur often, but it is a good idea to carry a pocket torch just in case. This can also be of use on the night trains.

The following health information is a general text that applies to all our travellers in China. Those who pay some attention to hygiene and skincare don’t usually run into health problems.

Food and drink: Tap water is unfit for human consumption; you should drink mineral water instead. In small eating places it is better not to eat fruit or salads that have been skinned beforehand. In the cities, preferably take your meals in busy restaurants. Do not eat ice cream, except in expensive restaurants. Clean your hands thoroughly before eating, even if you are only having a snack.

Sunshine and heat: Sunburn is a frequent cause for health problems. Sunburn and sun/heat strokes are easier caught than you may think. You should therefore avoid the sun during the hottest hours of the day, always wear a hat and good sunglasses when you are walking, and use a good suntan lotion when sunbathing. The latter can best be brought along from home, where the choice of product is much larger and prices are lower. At high temperatures the body’s need for water increases very rapidly, as does its need for salt. Make sure you drink enough when the heat is extreme and you will simply have to take it very easy during the hottest hours of the day. Make it a habit to treat wounds, however small, with something like iodine. Infections can occur and spread rapidly in the tropics, so take as much care as possible with scratches and insect bites.

Diarrhoea: Next to sunburn, the most common health problem is diarrhoea. Travellers are often hit by it after they have been on holiday for only a few days. In most cases it is an utterly innocuous phenomenon caused by the change of diet, the heat or harmless bacteria, against which the body will soon develop its defences. The main risk is dehydration, especially in children. It occurs when the body loses more fluid, salt and sugars than it receives. The result is a feeling of listlessness and weakness. It can be prevented by drinking a solution of water and ORS (Oral Rehydration Solution). It is sold in bags at the pharmacies and contains all the minerals and sugars that are evacuated with diarrhoea. Instead of this solution you can also take non-carbonated soft drinks or heavily salted broth. For many people, Coca Cola has a constipating effect in the first stages of diarrhoea. When the diarrhoea is accompanied by high fever and/or bloody defecation it is sensible to consult a physician. When the diarrhoea lasts for more than a few days without the above-mentioned symptoms or when you have to travel, you may take Imodium (or Diacure) a couple of times. It is an opium-like preparation that prevents bowel movement for a number of hours.

Insects: Mosquitoes are most active just after sunset or just before sunrise. So take your measures right then, and during the entire night. Covering up the skin with clothing is an effective measure. Or use an insect repellent like DEET. You can ask for mosquito coils from your hotel desk or the restaurant where you eat. These green spirals can be burnt underneath your table or chair, detaining the mosquitoes. Electric coils are better suited to closed-off spaces. Lastly, you can consider bringing a mosquito net.

Doctors: If you want to visit a doctor in China, please allow yourself to be advised by hotel staff or the tour guide. Doctors are well educated but usually speak little English. You can obtain nearly all medication without a prescription.

First-aid kit: An example of a first-aid kit: plasters, bandages, cotton wool, small pair of scissors, thermometer, iodine, painkillers, malaria tablets, ORS, Imodium, suntan lotion, earplugs, tweezers, a remedy against insects and ointment against itching. If you need to use vital drugs regularly, please take along an exact description in English (it is important not to use the brand name, but the composition and dosage). For the duration of the journey please take along a double amount and store it away separately, as a backup.

Contact lenses: Please take into account that (hard) contacts could give trouble due to dust and drifting sand. Taking a pair of extra lenses or glasses might come in handy.

Vaccinations: Stated below is the recommendation by the Health Authorities when this edition went to press. This information may change. Furthermore the question is what your personal needs are, which depends on earlier vaccinations, possible sensitivity for certain medicines, pregnancy, age etc. ALWAYS contact your General Practitioner or the Practice Nurse for advice. We at Shoestring do not provide any further information by telephone. The complete overview for this journey is: DTaP, hepatitis A, Typhoid and antimalaria tablets. Take your precautions on time; some inoculations need time to achieve the desired effect.

Visa Information
Please note that British passport holders require a visa for entry into China. This is not arranged by Shoestring but please use the following link for further information: http://www.chinese-embassy.org.uk/eng/

Further advice to make your journey more pleasant: Allow your body and mind the time to steadily adjust to the new time zone and location. Avoid tension; do not draw up a plan immediately. In any event take it easy on the first day. Getting up early is a good habit; in warm weather countries the morning temperature is usually the most agreeable. The people in these countries are used to getting up early. If you adapt yourself to their rhythm you will see the most of their country. If you have had enough sleep you will be better able to cope with all the new impressions etc. and still have enough energy to do a lot of things.

Make sure that those at home know which country you are in and how long you are planning to stay away. You may fix a date when you will contact them again. Provide those picking you up from the airport with your flight times and numbers. Shoestring will not provide flight and/or travel information, accommodation names and telephone numbers to third parties. Any information on delays can be retrieved via the information number at the airport or Teletext, not via Shoestring.

Contact person
In case of an emergency it is important for us to have details of someone we can contact on your behalf. You have entered a name on the booking form. It is possible that this person is on holiday during your trip. If so, enter a second person so that we are sure to be able to get in touch with somebody.

During the summer months most parts of China are stiflingly hot. When in Yangshuo for instance, it is wise to wear a shirt with long sleeves and a pair of trousers for protection against mosquitoes. Rather bring along too little than too much. If there is anything missing you can usually buy it locally for a song. An umbrella and a light rain jacket could come in handy; the umbrella can protect you from the rain as well as the blazing sunshine. A sweater is certainly necessary in the spring and the autumn. A pair of good quality worn in walking shoes with a good profile and a pair of flip flops is all your feet will need.
Furthermore, you will need the following important things: sunglasses, suntan lotion, toiletries, a first-aid kit, head covering, photographic or film equipment, back-up batteries, a pocket torch, a pocket knife (don’t put this in your hand luggage during the flight), an alarm, pen and paper, books, a valid passport with a visa for China, sufficient cheques and cash, copies of your passport and travel insurance, a list of numbers of your cheques and the receipt, plane ticket(s), travel insurance card including the emergency number, pocket organizer with important addresses, travel guide. Optional: reading lamp, universal plug. All this is best packed into an overnight bag or rucksack, not a hard suitcase, because this is awkward to transport. In addition a small rucksack or shoulder bag will come in handy for daily use. For securing valuables it is best to buy a thin money belt that you can wear under your clothes. Take care that your luggage is not too heavy; 20 kilogram’s is the maximum. At train stations you will have to carry your luggage to the train yourself. In the trains the sleepers are provided with bedclothes. For this journey it is not necessary to take a sleeping bag.

The amount of spending money suggested is the minimum required to pay for your meals, drinks, optional excursions, entrance fees, airport taxes and tips. The amount you actually need of course depends on your own spending pattern; that is why souvenirs are not included. We suggest £125-£150 per week.

Not all types of camera batteries are on sale. Videotape is not on sale everywhere in China. Be sure to have batteries that will last the entire holiday. Chinese people generally do not object to being photographed. However, some ethnic minorities do not always like being photographed. When in doubt you had better ask first. Sometimes they will say no. It is strictly prohibited to photograph the terracotta army in Xi'an. You will have to pay a fine and you will lose your film at least.
 

China is a reasonably safe country; there are hardly any acts of violence against foreigners. Pick pocketing does occur often, especially in the larger towns and cities. You have to beware of this in busy places. Local buses and station squares are notorious. The guideline is: carry your passport, airline ticket and traveller’s cheques and most of your money under your clothing in a money belt. See to it that you have enough change for the day in an easily accessible place, so you won’t have to reach for your money belt in public. Never leave money or valuables behind in your hotel room.

The time difference with our summer time is plus 7 hours, during our winter time 8 hours. During our travels we remain in one time zone.

Giving tips was not customary for a long time in China, but it is gaining ground increasingly. Local guides at excursions to the Chinese Wall or the Terracotta Army at Xi’an also expect a contribution. Taxi drivers and restaurant staff do not really expect a bonus, but they do appreciate it. The amount we suggest for chauffeurs and co-drivers working for us is 100 Yuan a day on behalf of the whole group.
Apart from that the local travel guide will expect a tip at the end of the journey if he or she has done a good job. We suggest £13 per traveller for the whole journey .